I probably met David very early in my service, but I can’t
say I remember anything about that first interaction. At that point my energy was focused on
getting to know the community, and as a teacher he wasn’t a permanent member of
it, and thus outside my principle interest. Not long after this first meeting I
left for language seminar and my second round of training. By the time I came
back he was on his summer vacation. Then another school
year started and a couple months later I was off to America and wouldn’t be
back to SPB for four months, by which time I was busy building latrines and another school year was wrapping up.
So it really wasn’t until my last year in Saré Pathé that I got to know David. By the
time I did our friendship unfolded so easily and naturally that it seemed as if
I’d known him for years.
It was easy to be friends with David because, like me, he is an
outsider in Saré Pathé. He speaks Mandinka, but he is not Mandinka. He is Diola and
Catholic, from a more prosperous part of Senegal, and perhaps most importantly
for me, he is far more educated than any of the permanent residents of SPB. All
of the teachers have been to University and have seen something of the world
outside of these tiny villages. Even if it is just through books or TV, even if
it is just Dakar, the fact of having been somewhere other than Saré
Pathé
means that they can better understand the journey that I made in coming
here.
On top of this, David is especially generous, outgoing and kind, one of
the warmest people I've ever known. And of course it helps that he
speaks excellent English. We made a pact last year that
we would never speak to each other in French, only Mandinka or English
so that
one of us could always practice. We usually ended up speaking English
though,
which was more than fair considering how much practice I get without his
help.
I taught him idioms and proverbs. And I spent many a pleasant afternoon
this
past year sitting with him and the other teachers under a mango tree,
talking
about our different cultures, about languages, history, politics and
about our
friends and families.
As the last school year came to a close and David and his colleagues
prepared to go back to their respective regions I found myself wondering how it
was that I missed out on this kind of friendship during the first half of my
service. Mainly it was for the reasons enumerated above, but I think it also
has something to do with my own level of comfort within this culture and within
the Nafi persona. I noticed it a few weeks ago also when I had a very long and
illuminating conversation with my favorite guard here at the Peace Corps house.
I came away from that interaction feeling so much love for this man who I see
every time I’m in Kolda and who is infinitely wiser than I ever realized before
that night. How could I have thought I knew this man before? How could I have
gone this long without knowing these details of a life that interests me, that
has intersected with mine so often? Part of it is that by now I’m really good
at communicating with Senegalese people, which was not always the case. But
beyond this ease of cross-cultural communication - that could only come with
experience - I find that as my service draws to a close I am trying to soak it
all up and get the absolute most out of these experiences and relationships. It
is a bittersweet moment in the life of Nafi.
I
may not see David again before I go back to America. He was the first
of many difficult goodbyes so I wanted to dedicate a post to him, to
those good times under the mango tree and to the other wonderful friends
I've made in this country. I’m just thankful, as always, to
have had the chance to learn this culture and to know these people. They
are
some of the best I’ve had the privilege to know.
Diatta, Babene, Sonko & Sagna |
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