Sunday, April 29, 2012

What's new?


As anticipated, getting back to my life in SPB was a fairly easy process, not too much has changed. The hardest part was the logistics of getting there, but even that managed to work out great – three long flights + two long layovers + an all day bus ride = Santa Rosa to Saré Pathé, door to door in approximately 78 hours… not too shabby. Tanko was the first to greet me as I rolled into my compound, but news of my return spread quickly and I’ve spent a lot of time in the last few weeks answering the same series of questions: How are the people of America? How is your mother? And your father? And your siblings? How is your leg? Are you better? May God heal you quickly. Amen!
I'm back to sleeping under the stars, saying “heera” fifty times a day and eating lots of leaf sauce! I’ve returned to SPB as I first saw it – hot, dry, full of cows and mangoes and bamboo home improvement projects. This part of the year there is not much fieldwork to be done so everyone is getting ready for the rains. In my compound this means new fences, new roofs and even new huts! My bush path is back to what it looked like the first time I hiked down it and my backyard is as void of plant life as it was when I first installed (RIP Banana). But despite these superficial reminders of what life was like for me a year ago, I am feeling a distinctive, fresh village vibe these days. A new chapter begins!
Mamadou and Moustapha building a new hut out of bamboo. It will later get a layer of mud (from the dirt displaced by our new latrine!).

My latrine project is well underway (click here for more details!). I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the level of enthusiasm and urgency with which people are approaching this project and how quickly the work is progressing already. My Care Group is also up and running again, with a couple of solid alternates joining the rotation. This week they have been teaching the village how to make Oral Rehydration Solution and are so wonderfully engaged in the task! I’m hoping to expand these lessons to surrounding villages in the coming months. All in all, I’m unusually busy at site and I love it. I no longer get nervous about calling meetings, I know how to get the help I want when I want it, I know how to ask more of the right questions and I definitely know more of the right answers. My work counterpart had a baby while I was away (I didn’t even know she was pregnant when I left!) and my community counterpart left town, which means I’m a little more on my own these days, which is not a bad thing. When I spoke to Laye on the phone the other day I tried to explain that he doesn’t need to come back to Saré Pathé on my account. As far as I’m concerned he has done his job as my community counterpart – he gave me my introduction – and while I consider him a pal and would enjoy seeing him again soon I’m now at a point where I feel able to find my own work partners and friends in village. It took leaving and coming back to realize just how comfortable I have gotten at site.
Mamadou digging a new latrine in our compound

The other day, while making the greeting rounds I was in a compound that I don’t often visit and asked the name of a baby squirming in the lap of the woman I was greeting. “This is Lamine! You don’t recognize him?!” It was the baby who was born on my first day in village and named for my namesake’s husband who died the same day. He’ll be a year old in a couple weeks. My Peace Corps service measured in terms of human life. Two years is really not so long at all.   

Friday, April 6, 2012

Renewing my commitment

It's been a while since I last posted something; writing too many blog posts for cibylinsenegal from America seems like false advertising, and anyway I haven't had much to say. I imagine most of my readers have had some improved form of contact with me since my injury and fewer are resorting to this venue for news of my life. That being said, I thought it would be appropriate as I near the eve of my return to Africa (and in this moment between two spring holidays about remembrance and new beginnings) to offer some thoughts on my time at home and what has been going on in my absence.

Since being back in California the anniversary of my arrival in Senegal has come and gone. I've now spent more of my service in America than I did in training leading up to it. Sometimes it still feels like I've only been gone a few weeks, but then I remember that a new group of health volunteers have arrived and finished half of their training already. Or I think about something that happened while I was still in DC recovering from surgery and it seems like so long ago. I think about all the that's happened since January - the reunions, the revelations, the renewals, learning to get around on crutches, how to get in and out of the shower, how to carry things while my arms are trying to be legs. Not to mention teaching my bones and muscles and ligaments how to walk and bear weight again. A lot has happened in the last few months. It makes me wonder what would have been had I not gotten in that cab...

I can't imagine too much has changed in SPB since I left almost four months ago (hell, not much has changed there in the last hundred years!); the kids will be a bit bigger and Tanko will be a bit skinnier, but I'll fall back into the swing of things without having to catch up on the new gadgets and movies and viral youtube videos. That's all for my temporary American life... and believe me, the life of an invalid lends itself very well to being caught up on internetting. Not surprisingly my eye has been on West Africa in the news and the status updates of my fellow volunteers. There has been a lot to report. As some of you may know Senegal recently elected a new president, only their fourth since becoming independent in 1960. Despite the anticipation that was built up since my arrival last spring and a few tumultuous moments in between, the election season passed with relative peace and zero upset to the volunteer community. I know for most volunteers the elections were pretty uneventful (maybe disappointingly so), but it would have been interesting to watch the last chapter of that contest play out and hear what people in my village had to say about it. In any case, I watched from afar and privately celebrated the change of regime. I could not be more happy for the people of Senegal or for myself. I think the only thing that could have made my medical evacuation more unpleasant (although I can't say it was all bad) was if I had been told I couldn't come back due to political unrest. I feel for our volunteer neighbors to the east. Because of the recent coup Peace Corps Mali is evacuating volunteers for the first time since the program opened 41 years ago. Knowing first hand how hard it is to abandon your site and your host family I know that what they are going through is incredibly sad and painful. I'm lucky. I get to go back.

Through all of this I've been reminding myself to count my blessings:

1. I am lucky to be alive.
2. I am lucky to have a network of support and love that spans these two continents. Whether at home in Santa Rosa or at home in Sare Pathe, I have family and friends to look out for me and care for me and bring me things to eat.
3. I am lucky to be independent and mobile. It takes great strength of character to stay upbeat while having to depend on others to do for you what you've been able to do for yourself most of your life.
4. I am lucky to work for an organization (however frustratingly bureaucratic) that takes care of its employees - flying me home first class, taking care of my medical needs, insurance...
5. I am lucky to have insurance.
6. I am lucky to come home to a comfortable house in a spectacularly beautiful part of the world.
7. I am lucky to be so eager to go back. I love what I'm doing there. I love my village and my host family so much. I continue to be thrilled with this decision and am grateful not to suffer from the kinds of doubts that have plagued me at other points in my life. It feels so wonderful to know that my heart is in this experience, really and truly.

To humanity,
to the earth,
to our betterment, each of us,
our greatest work.
To renewal!